APHEL A01 Ellipse: steel case, blue dial with elliptical scales, orange seconds hand, midnight-blue leather strap

A01 Ellipse · first series

The illusion of the circle.

40.5 × 36.5 mm. Four millimetres of difference. The entire architecture of the A01 grows out of that tension.

At arm's length, the watch looks perfectly round. On the wrist, the eye catches the ellipse.

In developmentCase frozen100 pieces

Images: renders of the actual CAD model, revision 17. The prototype does not exist yet.

APHEL

A deliberate shape. Never a gratuitous one.

APHEL designs recognisable watches, without chasing eccentricity.

Each model starts from one precise decision about shape. Everything else follows: proportions, finishing, dial, colour.

The A01 begins with an ellipse that is almost a circle.

The shape

A circle, stretched by four millimetres.

Start with a 36.5 mm circle. Stretch it by 4 mm horizontally and it becomes a 40.5 mm ellipse. The crystal opening, however, stays perfectly round.

So the steel band is not a constant width. Slim at 12 and 6 o'clock, it widens towards 3 and 9. That is where the brushing catches the light and the polished chamfer sends it back.

Major axis
40.5 mm
Minor axis
36.5 mm
Difference
4 mm
Lug to lug
45.5 mm
Lug width
20 mm
40.5 36.5 circle Ø 36.5 + 2 + 2
Fig. 1 · Case, front view. Diagram, dimensions in mm.

The case

A single block of steel, two bands from lug to lug.

45.5 lug to lug
Fig. 2 · Profile, case only. Diagram.

One block. No break.

Case middle, bezel and lugs are cut from the same block of 316L steel. No added plates. The lines run from one lug to the other in a single, fluid sweep.

Shaping the light.

Contrast does the work: the top is circular-brushed, the flanks are brushed lengthwise, separated by mirror-polished chamfers. The boundary is sharp. The light stops exactly where the shape changes.

Slim

9.7 mm including the crystal: that is the target thickness, to be confirmed on the prototype. The lugs curve down so the watch rests on the wrist instead of sitting on top of it.

Drawn here, revision after revision.

This case comes from no catalogue. Drawn in CAD by the founder for the A01, it was reworked until it became a monobloc construction fit for manufacturing.

Its final version is frozen: it is the one that went to the manufacturer.

Fig. 3 · Perspective, case only. Diagram.

The making

A circle.

Ø 36.5 mm

Case middle
40.5 × 36.5 mm
Difference
4 mm
Lug to lug
45.5 mm
Lug width
20 mm
Chamfers
mirror-polished
Crown
screw-down
Case
monobloc · 316L steel
Target thickness
9.7 mm
Close-up of the blue dial with elliptical scales: flange and minute track, applied indices, double index at 12 o'clock, orange seconds hand

The dial

A dial textured by the shape.

  • The ellipse carries through to the heart of the watch: scales drawn as arcs of an ellipse, laid in staggered rows, each with its own grooves.
  • Under the sapphire crystal, light plays across this texture with every tilt of the wrist. The blue darkens towards the edge, down to the midnight-blue flange.
  • Tapered applied indices with two polished facets, a double index at 12 o'clock, a thin line of lume at their centre.
  • A single accent breaks that depth: the seconds hand, orange like a ray of sunlight. Even at aphelion, at its farthest from the Sun, its light still reaches us.
Profile of the case and the midnight-blue leather strap, its orange edge showing beneath the leather
Fig. 4 · Midnight-blue leather, orange lining. Render of the CAD model.

The strap

Orange, on the skin side.

Fine-grain midnight-blue leather, tone-on-tone stitching. The lining picks up the orange of the seconds hand: you glimpse it along the edge, and discover it when you take the watch off.

A blue FKM strap is planned as an alternative, on the same 20 mm lug width. So you can fit your own straps too.

Specifications

What is decided, and what remains to be proven.

CaseMonobloc 316L steel · 40.5 × 36.5 mm · lug to lug 45.5 mm · lug width 20 mmDecided
FinishingCircular brushing on top, lengthwise brushing on the bands · mirror-polished chamfersOn sample
Thickness9.7 mm, crystal includedTarget
Water resistance100 m, screw-down crownTarget
CrystalFlat sapphire, anti-reflective coatingDecided
MovementMiyota 9039 · automatic · 28,800 vph · 42 h power reserve · three hands, no dateDecided
DialBlue with elliptical scales, lighter at the centre · flange with minute track · tapered applied indices · discreet lume · orange seconds handOn sample
StrapMidnight-blue leather, orange lining · blue FKM as an alternativeOn sample
Series100 piecesDecided

A target is not a promise: it will be confirmed or corrected on the prototype, and the result published in the journal.

aphelion farthest, slowest perihelion Sun
Fig. 5 · An elliptical orbit, with the Sun at one focus.

The name

Why APHEL.

APHEL comes from aphelion, the point of an orbit farthest from the Sun. On a circle, that point does not exist. The ellipse is necessary.

Our first watch starts exactly there: almost a circle, but not quite.

Where the watch stands

Not on the wrist yet. Here is exactly where it is.

  1. First specification for the A01
  2. The ellipse is set: 40.5 × 36.5 mm
  3. APHEL trademark filed
  4. Back to a monobloc case, frozen at revision 17
  5. Consultation file sent to the manufacturer
  6. Elliptical-scale dial and slimmer crown: amendment to the file
  7. Coming nextFeasibility and quotation
  8. Coming nextDial, finishing and lume samples
  9. Coming nextPrototype, measured and photographed
  10. Coming nextPre-orders open, to the list first

The founder

“I would rather show you where the watch stands than promise you what I have not yet measured.”

Fodé Oularé · founder, case designer

APHEL is an independent brand, founded and designed in the Paris region. It claims no watchmaking heritage: it documents what it builds.

The prototype is self-funded. The first series will number 100 pieces.

Launch list

100 pieces. One way in.

The A01 Ellipse will be funded through pre-orders, and priority will be strictly reserved for this list. No payment today. Leave your address to:

  • See the price and schedule before any public announcement.
  • Follow the build log of the prototype.
  • Get priority access to the 100 pieces.

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The watch images are non-contractual renders of the actual CAD model, revision 17.