40.5 × 36.5 mm. Four millimetres of difference. The entire architecture of the A01 grows out of that tension.
At arm's length, the watch looks perfectly round. On the wrist, the eye catches the ellipse.
In developmentCase frozen100 pieces
Images: renders of the actual CAD model, revision 17. The prototype does not exist yet.
APHEL
A deliberate shape. Never a gratuitous one.
APHEL designs recognisable watches, without chasing eccentricity.
Each model starts from one precise decision about shape. Everything else follows: proportions, finishing, dial, colour.
The A01 begins with an ellipse that is almost a circle.
The shape
A circle, stretched by four millimetres.
Start with a 36.5 mm circle. Stretch it by 4 mm horizontally and it becomes a 40.5 mm ellipse. The crystal opening, however, stays perfectly round.
So the steel band is not a constant width. Slim at 12 and 6 o'clock, it widens towards 3 and 9. That is where the brushing catches the light and the polished chamfer sends it back.
Major axis
40.5 mm
Minor axis
36.5 mm
Difference
4 mm
Lug to lug
45.5 mm
Lug width
20 mm
Fig. 1 · Case, front view. Diagram, dimensions in mm.
The case
A single block of steel, two bands from lug to lug.
Fig. 2 · Profile, case only. Diagram.
One block. No break.
Case middle, bezel and lugs are cut from the same block of 316L steel. No added plates. The lines run from one lug to the other in a single, fluid sweep.
Shaping the light.
Contrast does the work: the top is circular-brushed, the flanks are brushed lengthwise, separated by mirror-polished chamfers. The boundary is sharp. The light stops exactly where the shape changes.
Slim
9.7 mm including the crystal: that is the target thickness, to be confirmed on the prototype. The lugs curve down so the watch rests on the wrist instead of sitting on top of it.
Drawn here, revision after revision.
This case comes from no catalogue. Drawn in CAD by the founder for the A01, it was reworked until it became a monobloc construction fit for manufacturing.
Its final version is frozen: it is the one that went to the manufacturer.
Fig. 3 · Perspective, case only. Diagram.
The making
A circle.
Ø 36.5 mm
Case middle
40.5 × 36.5 mm
Difference
4 mm
Lug to lug
45.5 mm
Lug width
20 mm
Chamfers
mirror-polished
Crown
screw-down
Case
monobloc · 316L steel
Target thickness
9.7 mm
The dial
A dial textured by the shape.
The ellipse carries through to the heart of the watch: scales drawn as arcs of an ellipse, laid in staggered rows, each with its own grooves.
Under the sapphire crystal, light plays across this texture with every tilt of the wrist. The blue darkens towards the edge, down to the midnight-blue flange.
Tapered applied indices with two polished facets, a double index at 12 o'clock, a thin line of lume at their centre.
A single accent breaks that depth: the seconds hand, orange like a ray of sunlight. Even at aphelion, at its farthest from the Sun, its light still reaches us.
Fig. 4 · Midnight-blue leather, orange lining. Render of the CAD model.
The strap
Orange, on the skin side.
Fine-grain midnight-blue leather, tone-on-tone stitching. The lining picks up the orange of the seconds hand: you glimpse it along the edge, and discover it when you take the watch off.
A blue FKM strap is planned as an alternative, on the same 20 mm lug width. So you can fit your own straps too.
Specifications
What is decided, and what remains to be proven.
Case
Monobloc 316L steel · 40.5 × 36.5 mm · lug to lug 45.5 mm · lug width 20 mm
Decided
Finishing
Circular brushing on top, lengthwise brushing on the bands · mirror-polished chamfers
On sample
Thickness
9.7 mm, crystal included
Target
Water resistance
100 m, screw-down crown
Target
Crystal
Flat sapphire, anti-reflective coating
Decided
Movement
Miyota 9039 · automatic · 28,800 vph · 42 h power reserve · three hands, no date
Decided
Dial
Blue with elliptical scales, lighter at the centre · flange with minute track · tapered applied indices · discreet lume · orange seconds hand
On sample
Strap
Midnight-blue leather, orange lining · blue FKM as an alternative
On sample
Series
100 pieces
Decided
A target is not a promise: it will be confirmed or corrected on the prototype, and the result published in the journal.
Fig. 5 · An elliptical orbit, with the Sun at one focus.
The name
Why APHEL.
APHEL comes from aphelion, the point of an orbit farthest from the Sun. On a circle, that point does not exist. The ellipse is necessary.
Our first watch starts exactly there: almost a circle, but not quite.
Where the watch stands
Not on the wrist yet. Here is exactly where it is.
First specification for the A01
The ellipse is set: 40.5 × 36.5 mm
APHEL trademark filed
Back to a monobloc case, frozen at revision 17
Consultation file sent to the manufacturer
Elliptical-scale dial and slimmer crown: amendment to the file
Coming nextFeasibility and quotation
Coming nextDial, finishing and lume samples
Coming nextPrototype, measured and photographed
Coming nextPre-orders open, to the list first
The founder
“I would rather show you where the watch stands than promise you what I have not yet measured.”
Fodé Oularé · founder, case designer
APHEL is an independent brand, founded and designed in the Paris region. It claims no watchmaking heritage: it documents what it builds.
The prototype is self-funded. The first series will number 100 pieces.
Launch list
100 pieces. One way in.
The A01 Ellipse will be funded through pre-orders, and priority will be strictly reserved for this list. No payment today. Leave your address to:
See the price and schedule before any public announcement.
Follow the build log of the prototype.
Get priority access to the 100 pieces.
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The watch images are non-contractual renders of the actual CAD model, revision 17.
The brand
A deliberate shape.
APHEL designs recognisable watches, without chasing eccentricity. Each model starts from one precise decision about shape; everything else follows.
One decision per watch
For the A01 Ellipse: 4 mm of difference between the width and the height of the case. Proportions, finishing, dial and colour all answer to it.
Dimensions, not adjectives
We publish the dimensions, the finishing and the real state of development. Anything not yet measured on a prototype is written as a target.
Few pieces
The first series will be limited to 100 pieces. Small enough to follow production closely, without overproducing for a first launch.
The name
A name that comes from the shape.
APHEL takes its name from aphelion — the point of an orbit most distant from the Sun. It is from this vantage point that the brand looks at the world: its natural phenomena, from the most distant to the most elusive.
What it teaches first is nuance. Between a circle and an ellipse there is almost nothing: 4 millimetres on our case. Yet it is this nuance that makes aphelion exist — because on a perfect circle, no point is farther away than any other. Our first creation is built on that offset.
The brand will not confine itself to astronomy. What will run through our collections is a method: a strong decision about shape, and the technical rigour that follows from it.
APHEL is an independent watch house, founded and designed by Fodé Oularé in the Paris region. The A01 Ellipse opens the series.
One hundred watches to begin with. A list to be the first to know.
Development journal
Revision by revision.
What we decide, what we drop, what we measure. Subscribers receive the key milestones by email.
The dial takes on the ellipse
The first dial was right, but restrained: only its gradient echoed the shape of the case. It now receives scales drawn as arcs of an ellipse, lying flat like the case and laid in staggered rows, each with its own grooves. A flat flange carries the minute track. The crown becomes thinner, for a slimmer profile. An amendment to the consultation file describes both changes for the manufacturer; the rest of the file stays as it is.
The file has gone to the manufacturer
The complete A01 file has gone out for feasibility study and quotation. Next step: feedback from the engineering office, then the first dial and finishing samples.
Revision 17: the case is frozen
Softened lug tips, polished chamfers on the top and around the edge, a screw-down crown set on the band. The shape will not change again without an industrial reason.
Back to monobloc
For several revisions, the lug bands were plates fitted onto the case middle. Appealing on screen, impossible to manufacture cleanly. Everything went back into a single block of steel, with an identical shape.
The next steps reach your inbox before they reach this page.
Questions
Straight answers.
Does the watch exist yet?
Not yet. The case is frozen in CAD and the file is with the manufacturer. The watch images on this site are renders computed from the actual CAD model of the case. The dial, hands and strap are modelled from the consultation file and its amendment of 21 September. The first photographs will be of the prototype.
When can I order?
When pre-orders open, after the prototype is validated. Subscribers are told before anyone else. We give no date until the industrial schedule is confirmed.
What will it cost?
The price will be announced to subscribers first, as soon as the manufacturing quotes are settled. We do not publish a price we cannot yet stand by.
Why a Miyota 9039?
It is a proven Japanese automatic calibre, thin (3.9 mm) and designed without a date: no phantom crown position. It lets us aim for 9.7 mm of thickness, and put the budget where you can see it: the case and the dial.
Where is it made?
The manufacturers are being consulted. We will state the origin of every component once the contracts are signed, not before.
Are the water resistance and thickness guaranteed?
100 m and 9.7 mm are our targets. They will be confirmed or corrected on the prototype, and the result published in the journal.
Why one hundred pieces?
Small enough to follow production closely, without overproducing for a first launch. The series is funded by pre-orders; the prototype itself is self-funded.
Will the watches be numbered?
Yes. Every A01 of the first series will carry its own number, from 01 to 100, assigned in the order pre-orders are confirmed. One additional piece, numbered 00 and outside the series, will stay in the APHEL archives: all 100 numbers go to their owners. Where the number is engraved will be settled with the manufacturer.
How will pre-ordering work?
Directly on this site. Members of the launch list receive the link 72 hours before the public opening: during that window, pre-ordering is reserved for them. The terms — deposit, schedule, refund conditions — will be published before opening. Nothing is charged when you sign up.